They should, however, trust this justly celebrated chef, whose sometimes-painstaking refinements reflect a better way. Apart from the quality of the dishes, the reason to own Bouchon is to discover the richness of Keller's technical understanding. Readers study, for example, not to baste chicken while it roasts, which creates skin-softening moisture, and to agree to the base for crème caramel to sit before baking, like so permitting its flavors to deepen. Keller's sensitivity to ingredients and their composition is profound; and he and his collaborators have presented it so deftly this one locates oneself engrossed again and again. Whether Keller is talking concerning vinaigrettes (in their balance of fat, acid, and saltines, the ideal sauce) vegetable glazing, or the creation of brown butter, his insights are fascinating.
The dishes cover a wide range of courses, and contain the traditional--poule au pot, veal roast, pommes frites, and so on--and the "new," such as Gnocchi together with Summer Vegetables, Skate together with Fennel-Onion Confit and Tapenade Sauce, and Grandma Sheila's Cheesecake Tart together with Huckleberries. All are, as the French might say, impeccable--and can be accomplished by anyone willing to get the time to do so. Like his cooking, Bouchon is a sui generis treat. --Arthur Boehm